Suede, and How to Keep It

Most of our styles are cut from suede. It is neither a coincidence nor a trend. Suede softens with wear, takes color deeply and looks better at the end of a summer than at the start of it. Here is how we think about it, and how to care for it.

Why suede

Suede is the underside of the hide, buffed to a fine nap. It is lighter and more supple than smooth leather, which is why a suede loafer feels broken in within days, and it breathes, which matters when a shoe is worn without socks. The nap also catches light softly, so a navy suede reads as a deep, matte navy rather than a shine.

How it ages

Expect the nap to settle slightly where the shoe flexes and the color to deepen a shade over the first season. That is the material settling in, not wearing out. A pair that is brushed from time to time will keep its texture for years.

The routine

Before the first wear, apply a suede protector evenly from about eight inches away, let it dry for an hour, and repeat once. This single step makes the greatest difference. After that, a soft suede brush once a week lifts the nap and removes dust. For a scuff or a shiny patch, rub gently with a suede eraser and brush again. Store your shoes with cedar shoe trees, or filled with tissue paper, away from direct sun.

Rain, salt and sand

Suede and water are not enemies. They only ask for patience. If a pair gets wet, let it dry slowly at room temperature, never on a radiator, then brush it. Salt marks from sea air or winter sidewalks lift with a cloth barely dampened with water and a drop of white vinegar. Sand brushes out easily once dry.

What to avoid

Heat, harsh cleaners and wax polishes, as each one flattens the nap for good. Everything else, including the occasional downpour, is perfectly fine.